![]() ![]() ![]() If you want to sharpen your model’s eyelashes a bit or you want the bumblebee’s fuzz in your macro shot to really pop from the background, the Sharpen tool works well – but not for much more. When to Use The Sharpen Toolīecause of these issues, the Sharpen tool works best when you use it with a light touch. Additionally, there’s no mask or guide that shows you exactly where you’ve already applied the tool, so you can wind up with very inconsistent results if you’re not careful. The Sharpen tool gives you the ultimate degree of control over how sharpening is applied to your image, but that great power comes with great responsibility a few downsides that limit its usefulness.Įvery click restarts the sharpening effect, so you often have to work in very long strokes that limit your undo options. If you’re going to use the Sharpen tool, use a mid-range Rate setting and gradually build up the effect as needed. Like all brush-based tools in GIMP, there are a number of options that can affect how the sharpening is applied from Opacity to Force, but Rate is the most important. Using the shortcut Shift + U is always a faster way to start sharpening. There are also two other tools bundled into this spot in the toolbox by default (though I’m not sure why, exactly), so if you can’t find the Blur tool and Sharpen tool in GIMP, it may be behind the Smudge or Dodge / Burn icons instead. Let’s take a closer look at these two methods for sharpening an image in GIMP, learn how they work, and where they fit best into your workflow. You’ve probably seen wildly oversharpened images online without realizing why they looked so bad, but a little attention to detail (and this guide) will make sure that never happens to any of your images. While sharpening is easy to apply, it’s even easier to apply far too much of it. Method 2: Open the Filters menu, select the Enhance submenu, and click Sharpen (Unsharp Mask). Method 1: Select the Sharpen tool from the toolbox and hand-paint the areas to be sharpened. You can sharpen exclusively in selected areas using a brush-based tool, or you can sharpen the entire image at once with a filter. There are two primary ways to sharpen an image in GIMP, and they’re both easy to use. GIMP only has a couple of sharpening options, but it’s important to use them properly to get perfect tack-sharp images that don’t look overprocessed. Thanks, some useful suggestions there.Sharpening can be the difference between a good photo and a great one, making it an essential step in any photo editing workflow. Unsharp takes considerably more computation.įloating Imitations edited this topic ages ago. You can use Unsharp too, of course, but for these smaller images, Sharpen is faster, easier, and usually more natural.Īs far I can tell, Gimp Sharpen produces the same effect as sharpness on a digital camera or TV (even analog). I use Sharpen = 40 or 50 if I want it extra sharp. As a rule of thumb, I use Sharpen = 33 for any 1600x1200 or 1280x1024 upload that I want to look equivalent to the original image. You compensate by sharpening (or unsharpening). When scaling any image down, detail is always lost. For higher resolution images which may viewed up close, I strictly use Unsharp. It adds a tiny amount of noise which can actually be pleasant. The effect is uniform over the whole picture with less chance of creating bright fringing. ![]() So unless a photo needs really heavy sharpening due to blur (rather than softeness), I use (0.5 < Radius < 3), and stay with (0.2 < Amount < 0.5).įor JPEGs being uploaded to Flickr at 1600x1200 resolution or less, I normally use (25 < Sharpen < 50). If you set the Radius > 1.0, bright fringing becomes visible at 1:1 pixel zoom when Amount is greater than about 0.3. The only time it would is if your printer does not have a mind of it's own and just prints the image at the specified DPI instead of the specified size. Hairy_matt wrote: ~100dpi for screen use or ~300dpi for prints You know that DPI is a myth and it does not make any difference? I'm mostly sharpening big 96dpi images straight out of the camera for screen use and occasionally resizing and sampling to 300dpi first for prints.įor general increase in sharpness: 3-7px radius, 0.20-0.75 amount, threshold depends on the picįor local contrast: 45+ radius, amount to taste but always less than 1.0, again threshold depends on pic. I understand the best settings depend on the current resolution of the image, so please specify if you are talking ~100dpi for screen use or ~300dpi for prints. Just curious as despite a lot of reading on the subject (which mostly confusintgly refers to the photoshop way of specifying amount as a percentage) I'm still none the wiser as to a sensible starting point for sharpening up photos. ![]()
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